I found that the problem indeed is the antivirus “real time file system protection”. I do the following to fix the problem:
trace(utils:::unpackPkgZip, edit=TRUE)
I edit line 140 (line 142 in R 3.4.4):
Sys.sleep(0.5)
to:
Sys.sleep(2)
I seems like the antivirus stalls the creation of the package tmp dir. After changing it to 2 seconds the error is gone.
EDIT: to do this programmatically execute
trace(utils:::unpackPkgZip, quote(Sys.sleep(2)), at = which(grepl("Sys.sleep", body(utils:::unpackPkgZip), fixed = TRUE)))
(credits @DavidArenburg)